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Books
Anonis, D. P. (1993). Flower oils and floral compounds in perfumery. Carol Stream, IL: Allured Publishing.
Based on a series of articles published in U.S. and British journals over a period of 30 years. The author is a senior perfumer/chemist
with many years of experience creating perfume. The book begins with the history of essential oils. There are separate chapters
for each of 41 flowers, describing their natural oils and their synthetic compounds.
Dublin Core Metadata
Barille, E., & Laroze, C. (1995). The book of perfume. Paris; New York: Flammarion.
"Introduction to the most important aspects of perfumery. Covers the history of perfume from the 17th century to the
present, biographies on the greatest "noses" [perfume creators] of the past, insights into the creation of fragrances
and perfume bottles. Illustrated with pictures of perfume factory interiors, famous "noses" at work, rare perfume
bottles. Elizabeth Barille is a novelist, and author of booklets on several perfume houses. Catherine Laroze is a philosopher
and journalist."--Marcello, www.nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com
Dublin Core Metadata
Calkin, R. R. (1994). Perfumery: practice and principles. New York: Wiley-Interscience.
"A text/reference regarding the structure and function of components used in perfume development and the process of developing
perfumes. Covers gas chromatography, mass spectrometry, and a host of other analytical techniques; the aesthetics and techniques
of perfume development; the manifold and ever-changing safety-related requirements of countries and customers; concerns about
the environmental impact of materials and impurities which affect the perfumer's work."--Wiley-Interscience (publisher)
Both the authors have extensive experience in training perfumers.
Dublin Core Metadata
Curtis, T., & Williams, D. G. (2001). Introduction to perfumery. (2nd ed.).
A standard reference book for beginning perfumery students, the book provides a good overview of the perfumery industry and
explains the basic chemistry of aroma chemicals. Good for those without a chemistry background.
Donato, G., & Seefried, M. (1989). The fragrant past: perfumes of Cleopatra and Julius Caesar. Atlanta: Emory
University Museum of Art and Archeology.
The authors chronicle their attempt to reproduce Cleopatra's and Julius Caesar's perfumes. Includes a short history of perfume
production.
Dublin Core Metadata
Edwards, M. (2006). Fragrances of the world 2006. Crescent House.
Known as the fragrance "bible." Has been published annually for over 20 years. Lists over 4,500 fragrances, classified
into 13 fragrance families. Includes prestige, niche, limited edition, bridge and mass market fragrances. An essential reference
for retailers and perfumers.
Dublin Core Metadata
Edwards, M. (1998). Perfume legends: French feminine fragrances. La Quinta, CA: Crescent House.
"[W]idely accepted as the ultimate perfume book in English...The author gives an overview of the classics of modern perfumery,
complete with technical details and historical background."--Marcello, http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com
Dublin Core Metadata
Festing, S. (1987). The story of lavender. (2nd ed.). New York: Hyperion Books.
Describes the cultivation, history, folklore, botany, literature, and uses of lavender, especially in the UK. One resource
stated that Festing is a librarian.
Dublin Core Metadata
Feydeau, E. (2006). A scented palace: the secret history of Marie Antoinette's perfumer. I. B. Tauris.
Feydeau, a professor at the Versailles School of Perfumers, draws on the papers of perfumer Jean-Louis Fargeon to reveal the
secrets of his luxurious creations for Marie Antoinette. A native of Montpelier, Fargeon moved to Paris, becoming an apprentice
to one of the city's most fashionable perfumers. Fargeon won the queen's favor with a gift of exceptional scented kidskin
riding gloves and rapidly gained her confidence; he treated her secret pregnancy-related hair loss and became her loyal friend.
Tracing Marie Antoinette's extravagant expenditures and far-fetched follies amid increasingly enraged public opinion, Feydeau
charts the fall of the house of Versailles, Marie Antoinette's decline during her imprisonment, and Fargeon's own fate. While
the perfumer declared himself to be a Republican, he was also a wealthy man with royal connections and thus a natural target
for the Revolution. While arrested, he managed to escape trial. Feydeau's modest tome is sympathetic to Marie Antoinette;
rather than provide much historical context, it spotlights the intimate life of the palace, excelling chiefly in explanations
of fascinating 18th-century beauty secrets, from black adhesive taffeta beauty spots to swan's down powder puffs. Botanical
appendices list the ingredients and methods of Fargeon's influential unguents.
Dublin Core Metadata
Genders, R. (1972). A history of scent. London: Hamilton.
Dublin Core Metadata
Genders, R. (1972). Perfume through the ages. New York: Putnam.
Discusses scent: What it is, how it works, and its effect on people and animals. Includes the science of perfumery.
Dublin Core Metadata
Groom, N. (2005). New perfume handbook. (2nd ed.). Springer.
A comprehensive, encyclopaedic reference book. Entries include descriptions of essential oils used in perfumery from ancient
times to the present, their history and folklore, and examples of perfumes in which they are constituents. Animal ingredients
are also described, together with the principal chemical and synthetic materials now employed. Entries cover the history of
perfumery, perfume terminology and the processes of creation and manufacture. Brief biographies are provided of some of the
great "noses," flacon designers and other famous people in the world of perfumery.
Dublin Core Metadata
Irvine, S. (1996). Perfume: the creation and allure of classic fragrances. London: Haldane Mason.
Irvine's perfume guide profiles 200 contemporary fragrances, including how each came into being and the people who created
them. The author is one of the UK's leading writers on fragrance and has won the perfume industry's prestigious Jasmine award
eight times.
Dublin Core Metadata
Kaufman, W. I. (1974). Perfume: photographs and text. New York: Dutton.
Offers a fairly detailed history of perfume, from ancient Greece to the origins of the modern perfume industry in France.
Features interviews with perfumers.
Dublin Core Metadata
Lefkowith, C. M. (1994). The art of perfume: discovering and collecting perfume bottles. Photographs by Skot Yobbagy.
New York: Thames and Hudson.
The hundreds of containers illustrated date from the beginning of the 20th century through the 1950s. In this detailed history,
Lefkowith describes the serious attention given to a perfume's name, label, bottle, stopper, ornaments, and box. Often, this
multimedia art form represents the work of well-known artists, designers, and couturiers and echoes well-known design influences,
including Art Nouveau and Art Deco.
Le Guerer, Annick. (1992). Scent: the mysterious and essential powers of smell. (1st U.S. ed.). New York: Turtle
Bay Books.
A highly readable book about fragrance. Le Guerer discusses the historical uses and properties of scent in relation to magic,
myth, religion, sex, discrimination, philosophy, and medicine. Indexed.
Morris, E. T. (1999). Scents of time: perfume from ancient Egypt to the 21st century. Boston: Metropolitan Museum
of art: Bulfinch Press/Little Brown.
Provides a nicely illustrated survey of perfume history. The short introductory chapter introduces the major scent families,
along with some basic production techniques and perfume terminology. Subsequent chapters explore various times and cultures,
including ancient times in the Fertile Crescent, Greece and Rome, the Near East, and East Asia. Most of the second half of
the book is devoted to perfumery in the West, from the Middle Ages to the present day.
Read an excerpt from "Scents of Time."
Morris, E. T. (1984). Fragrance: the story of perfume from Cleopatra to Chanel. New York: Scribner.
Muller, P. M., & Lamparsky, D. (Eds.). (1991). Perfumes: art, science and technology. Springer.
Newman, C. (1998). Perfume: the art and science of scent. Photography by Robb Kendrick. [Washington, D.C.]: National
Geographic Society.
"Newman's investigation of perfume and the perfume industry began as an article for National Geographic, but as she
delved deeper into the topic, she found herself writing a book. Whether Newman is describing the science of extracting scent
from the natural world, the technology of manufacturing perfume, the business of producing it, or the craft of selling it,
she never fails to capture the reader's imagination, both with the indelible detail...and the fascinating historical aside...A
terrific mix of popular science and culture."--Ilene Cooper, Booklist
Ohloff, G. (1994). Scent and fragrances: the fascination of odors and their chemical perspectives. Heidelberg:
Springer-Verlag.
The author is a renowned fragrance chemist.
Pavia, F. (1996). The world of perfume. New York: Knockerbocker Press.
Begins with a chapter describing every ingredient used in perfume-making, from plant and animal products to synthetic materials.
Explores perfume manufacturing and the role of the "nose" or perfume maker. Covers each "family" of fragrances.
Provides biographies of Guerlain, Chanel, Dior, and Lanvin.
Pybus, D., & Sell, C. (1999). The chemistry of fragrance. London: Royal Society of Chemistry.
"Covers all aspects involved in perfumery, giving wonderful insights into the stuff that modern fragrances are made of, and
how they are marketed. As has been said many times before, chemistry plays an essential role in the art of perfumery; this
book makes it clear that science and creativity go hand in hand."--Marcello, Now smell this: a blog about perfume,
http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com
Stamelman, R. (2006). Perfume: joy, scandal, sin--a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present. New
York: Rizzoli.
Focuses on the importance of perfume in France from the 18th century to the present, including the lore and symbolism of fragrance.
The author, a professor of Romance languages at Dartmouth College, is an honorary member of the Societe Francaise des Parfumeurs
and a Guggenheim Foundation fellow.
Trueman, J. (1975). The romantic story of scent. Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday.
The history and sociology of perfume. Includes a directory of essential oils and their properties.
Van Toller, S., & Dodd, G. H. (Eds.). (1988). Perfumery: the psychology and biology of fragrance. London; New
York: Chapman and Hall.
Reviews olfaction research, and its relationship to the study of perfumery psychology. Understanding the psychological basis
of perfumery requires a sophisticated understanding of several academically distinct disciplines.
Wells, F. V., & Billot, M. (1981). Perfumery technology: art, science, industry. (2nd ed.). New York: Halsted
Press.
An excellent and concise analysis of the history of perfumery, with a cursory look at the etymology of fragrance terminology,
particularly regarding the perfumer's laboratory.
Williams, D. G. (2004). Perfumes of yesterday. Port Washington, N.Y.: Micelle Press.
This book covers perfumes commonly made and sold in Britain during the Victorian and Edwardian eras. Its main section comprises
recipes for perfumes and toilet waters gathered from contemporary published articles and books. Following each formula, various
aspects of the perfume are discussed, including the historical context of its use, the history behind its name, and its modern
counterparts. Contains useful appendixes and indexes.
Periodical articles
Blincoe, N., & Saunders, F. S. (2001). Scents and sensibilities. New Statesman, 130(4547), pp. 40-42.
Abstract: Focuses on perfumery and the British art. Fashion companies that develope their own perfumes; list of classic
perfumes; techniques used by perfume manufacturers; discussion on sensuality and perfume.
Dublin Core Metadata
Brun, J.-P. (2000). The production of perfumes in antiquity: the cases of Delos and Paestum. American Journal of Archaeology,
104(2), p. 277, 32 p.
Abstract: Focuses on the ancient art of perfume production in the cities of Delos in Greece and Paestum in Italy. Origins
of production in several ancient cities; perfumeries in Delos and Paestum; information on perfume prices and perfume makers
in Roman society.
Dublin Core Metadata
Bye, E. K., & DeLong, M. R. (1990). Apparel for the senses: the use and meaning of fragrances. Journal of Popular Culture,
24(3), pp. 81-88.
Abstract: The article discusses fragrances and their use by men and women in both traditional and modern times. In particular,
the article looks at how fragrance has changed historically in terms of the messages it sends.
Cor, you don't half smell. Economist, 358(8206), p. 80.
Abstract: Discusses researchers' attempts to discover the reason behind our use of perfume. Assumption that perfume is used
to mask body odor; idea that perfume is used to draw attention to body odor; research of Max Planck and Manfred Milinski;
discussion of the role of the major histocompatabiity complex (MHC) in determining odor. [The MHC is a set of molecules displayed
on cell surfaces that controls immune response through recognition of "self" and "non-self."]
Fuller, M. (2004). A perfumed philosophy. Philosophy Now, 48, pp. 23-24.
Abstract: Presents a conversation between Marcel Proust and his valet on scents and perfumes. Common ingredients of scents;
purpose of scents; information on the essay, "Of the standard of taste," by David Hume.
Green, T. (1991). Making scents is more complicated than you'd think. Smithsonian, 22(3), p. 52, 10 p.
Abstract: Argues that the process of making perfume is an intricate and ancient one. Discusses the Valley of the Roses in
Kazanluk, Bulgaria; unique aspects of Bulgarian rose oil; modern history of perfume manufacture and its beginnings in Grasse,
France; use of synthetics in the perfume industry; training of perfume creators or "noses."
Hoffman-Jeep, L. (1996). Plotting a misogynistic path to Christian Dior's Poison. Western Folklore, 55(4), p. 281,
16 p.
Abstract: Presents information on the perfume "Poison" by Christian Dior. Discusses folklore and cultural history
relating to women; misogynistic social practices; indepth look at various perfume designers.
Horwell, V. (2006). The nose has it. New Statesman, 135(7494), p. 53-54.
Abstract: The article reviews the book The secret of scent, by Luca Turin.
Dublin Core Metadata
Pain, S. (2001). The perfume hunters. New Scientist, 170(2287), p. 34, 4 p.
Abstract: Covers a perfume hunters' expedition to Madagascar in search of novel fragrances. Methods of gathering fragrances
from leaves, flowers, a waterfall, and coral; scents of resins which ooze from tree bark; task of recreating the captured
smells in a laboratory.
The secret life of flowers. (1994). Economist, 332(7870), p. 78.
Discusses the relationship between the perfumery industry and the growing of flowers. The attraction of rose attar; description
of "head-space analysis"; role of gas chromatography.
Smith, J. (2002). Sweet smell of excess. Ecologist, 32(9), pp. 12-13.
Abstract: Addresses the prevalence of the use of perfumes and scents. Function of scents; benefits of scents to brand marketing;
issues surrounding the obsession with perfumes.
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